VaultNetwork.net Vault Network Boards
Author Topic: Drywall question for teh experts [Locked]
Tipztoe  4 stars
Posts: 1,775
Registered: 2004-3-1 17:53:43
you want support behind every edge or it will crack.

Since it's not a load bearing wall, you could have put the header and footer in first then the vertical studs after and accounted for any variances accordingly.
Snarf_Igraine  2 stars
Posts: 258
Registered: 2003-12-13 14:36:34
AzureTyger posted:

So I tore out an old built in in the living room of the new house. I don't know what it was prior to being turned into shelves, but it is 33 inches wide and goes floor to ceiling. After removing it, my idea was to frame in some 2x4s and just drywall over the area since it isn't any kind of load bearing area and will be behind our entertainment center when finished. I measured as best I could and built a frame that is level and square, but when I lifted it into the opening, I found a decent amount of variance on each side, up to maybe 3/4" in different places. This is a very old house and most of the walls are a bit out of kilter.

What should I do? I could fit an even piece of drywall into the opening, but it would have anywhere from a tight fit to 3/4" gap as it goes up the wall. Will joint taping and filling tolerate that kind of gap, or will it just lead to cracks a few months down the road? Should I try to remove more wall and shim my frame into the existing joists?



You can re-cut a piece of drywall after you measure from top to bottom on left side and top to bottom on right side, there will be about a 3/4" difference as you have described. Draw a straight line from your two different measurements and cut it along that line so your drywall piece will have a slight slope rather than a 90 degree straight edge on your drywall piece. This should fit much better.

OR you could just put your current drywall piece and let your gap be biggest towards the floor and more tight at the ceiling. and using fiberglass mesh tape for the joints, push in as much joint compound as you can and put your first coat. Let dry, sand, and repeat for 3 coats. Your baseboard trim will hide any cracking imperfections that occur from any expansion, same for your crown molding on the ceiling.
Z-Elder  3 stars
Posts: 671
Registered: 2002-3-15 13:58:39
You pre built a frame?? noob


as was said hire a finisher, or tape and texture it yourself. You are not talking about a very big variance.

 

-----signature-----
"The poison of our ordinary habits has killed the magic of the moment"
"Men are not in hell because God is angry with them . . .
they stand in the state of division and separation which by their own motion, they have made for themselves"
Crackdoc  1 star
Posts: 236
Registered: 2005-10-7 12:55:29
AzureTyger posted:

So............. I measured as best I could and built a frame that is level and square, but when I lifted it into the opening, I found a decent amount of variance on each side, up to maybe 3/4" in different places.........../
Quote:




You didn't measure well then.

In any case, screw 2x4 to either side, then top and bottom, then add at least 2 cross-pieces.

THEN measutre edge to edge bottom, middle and top, cut the drywall to size and screw it in place.

THEN hire a mudder.




edit: I believe they prefer 'Taper'.

 

-----signature-----
People in the Middle-East: They Are ALL Crazy as BedBugs!!!
Erich Fromm: “There is only one meaning of life: the act of living itself.”
Toss aside the paradigms of civility you hold - welcome the social dysfunction of tomorrow.
AzureTyger  2 stars
Title: Awesome
Posts: 462
Registered: 2002-4-1 15:49:04
I don't ming reworking the framing to get it right. I have someone else lined up to do the mudding, I am not even going to futz with that stuff.

 

-----signature-----
Using the mirror of ridicule to force conservatives to
confront their own stupidity.
Halloweve  2 stars
Posts: 422
Registered: 2004-3-6 10:19:02
I learned how to mud n tape n sand sand sand sand sand a few years ago.

It made me feel like a real woman. I like it..but you gotta have patience or you will fug it up.
AzureTyger  2 stars
Title: Awesome
Posts: 462
Registered: 2002-4-1 15:49:04
Moe_Nox posted:

Ideally it would be best to not pre build the frame, but rather to tap in the 2x4s into place and secure each to the existing supports. 3/4" isn't terrible, just divide the space on both sides if this is in the middle of the wall, and if it butts a corner of the room leave the gap larger on that side.

Use extra brackets to secure the new supports in place and there shouldn't be enough play left to cause any noticeable cracks anytime soon.



One reason I wanted to prebuild the frame is that it is an 11' ceiling and I wanted to put it together in two pieces top and bottom. If I take it out and plate the top and bottom then attach directly to the existing supports, can I use two pieces with corner braces, or should I go ahead and get long enough supports to go from plate to plate and then just screw in horizontal supports every few feet?

 

-----signature-----
Using the mirror of ridicule to force conservatives to
confront their own stupidity.
Darkblade_The_Great  1 star
Posts: 150
Registered: 2000-8-10 09:20:33
It's an old house so things are not going to be level. Put the top and bottom plates in place. If the ceiling is 11', get 12 foot boards and cut each one to fit. You will notice that each one is going to have to be cut a different length do to the floor and ceiling both probably being out of level. Then you are going to want to put at least one row of horizontal braces(or fire blocks, what ever you want to call them) to keep it all rigid.

Keep your gaps as small as possible when sheet rocking as the bigger they are the higher the likely hood that they are going to crack over time. As far as taping and mudding I would personally hire somebody to do it. I can do it, but I hate it and I spend about 50 times longer than somebody that does it for a living.

 

-----signature-----

the less you gamble, the more you lose when you win.
"Just get us on the ground." "I think that part'll happen pretty definitely!"
Freedom only lives where good men make a stand
Z-Elder  3 stars
Posts: 671
Registered: 2002-3-15 13:58:39
If you are talking about a frame that the Sheetrock will be nailed to then I wouldn't bother reframing. It doesn't matter what it looks like as long as there are enough studs to hold your rock in place.


When you open up a wall in an old house one never knows what you will find for framing. The older the house the more creative they were. And every noob that has owned it ever since.

 

-----signature-----
"The poison of our ordinary habits has killed the magic of the moment"
"Men are not in hell because God is angry with them . . .
they stand in the state of division and separation which by their own motion, they have made for themselves"
DemonicXH  3 stars
Title: Camelot Vault Staff
News Editor

Posts: 584
Registered: 2003-12-1 08:14:17
Is there a particular reason that you are just going to close in the space?


I had something similar in my house, except it didn't go to the ceiling and I ripped it out and put my entertainment center in there.

VaultNetwork.net is an independently operated community forum and is not affiliated with, endorsed by, or technically based on IGN, GameSpy, FilePlanet, GameStats, or the former IGN/GameSpy Vault Network.
References to VaultNetwork.net mean this site/domain. VNBoards-style presentation is a visual homage only. By using this site, you agree to the forum rules.